OF FELINE ROYALTY- ROSETTES EDITION.

A JAUNT TO MAASAI MARA, KISUMU ISLANDS  AND BIRD WATCHER`S PARADISE.
sleeping bags, tents,boots, binoculars, hats check! bunduz man ahoy!  all i needed for my much anticipated trip to the Mara in pursuit of  the thrill and indulgence of an  avi-fauna and flora realm that boasts world wonders , history and the most spectacular experience in bunduz life for an intrepid adventurer as well as nature enthusiast.we assembled at the wildlife clubs of Kenya and at 0700 hours we hit the road for an expedition to Mara. our first stop over was at a the scenic `rift valley view point' over looking mt. longonot. enjoy your favorite as you unwind to the spectacular view of a world phenomena stretching from Syria to Mozambique in  Africa.

my next attraction of interest is the old italian church sitting on the escarpments. Mai Mahiu Catholic Church, popularly referred as the ‘Travellers Chapel’, is the smallest church in Kenya and only slightly bigger than America’s Our Lady of the Pines, the world’s smallest, which measures 12 by 12FT. A trip down memory lane indeed,uring the Second World War, British and Imperial forces captured more than half a million Italian soldiers, sailors and airmen. These Italian Prisoners of War are the ones who built the Mai Mahiu Catholic Church in 1942 under strict supervision from the British.
Construction of the church is itself an interesting story. Since the Italians were Catholics and the British were Anglicans, they could not mingle in prayer so the POWs were allocated land to build their own place of prayer. Believe it or not, they achieved this fit while working in shifts during breaks from the construction of the Mai Mahiu road! Many of them, like their companions who built the Italian War Memorial Church in Nyeri, died from Malaria and attacks by wild animals, including poisonous snakes that apparently live in the area to date.
The pentagon-shaped Mai Mahiu church is awash with Latin inscriptions and symbols mostly found above the stained glass windows and the entrance doors. Some like Venite Ad Memone (Come to me my people), Haec Est Victoria Quae Vincit Mundum Fides Mustra (This is the victory that has won the world by our faith) and Benedicite Coeli Domino Benedicite (Blessed be the sky and blessed again), capture the triumphant mood of the moment. Others like Universa Germinatia In Terra Domino, which means ‘everything will germinate in the sky and also on the earth’, are a complete mystery.

my next turn is at mahi mahiu town  as i get a chance to spot some speckled pigeon and red winged starling as i join the road to Narok .

Nature seems to be at pur with me as the road to mara is carpeted making it faster and  easily  accessible as i anxiuosly can`t afford to keep my head off the window in the light precipitation. - the universe welcoming to the bunduz i suppose  as i cross the Ewaso nyiro river

 .In about  two hours am at The maasai mara Sekenani gate  and the lush green plains surrounding the mara triangle pose an element of warm hospitality as the ambient sunset glares the hills. My interest is the 'maasai village ' as we are welcomed to heart throbbing renditions by the maa's in their regalia as the engage us in the folk songs.Am totally stoked and humbled to be there at the moment indeed .Our guide gives a brief talk  and explanation of this time in memorial culture and lifestyle which happens to be my bloodline on my Tanzanian ancestral traces (story of another day.)...my guide relates the origin of maa fabric to have originated from 'scotland'..the drafts, patterns and shouting red regalia in return posing a scare tactic to the wild animals.

 i enjoy a walk through in the manyatta`s and accessories at the local  open air curios ,what  a chance to grab a souvenir to cherish the mara and maa people. `To crown it all my heart finds a connection  when i meet the famous blacksmith and a solo maasai guitar guru playing `nchamoke"-a maasai guitar

 , MR. IRON SMITH. well fluent in his polished english he explains his  history of blacksmithing  something that has run in his family for over 10 decades as he points to the legendary gong he uses to make his copper bracelets among a few to mention.My attention is robbed when he begins tuning his self made guitar more like a harp and sooner the plucks ooze  sweet acoustics blending to his renditions appeasing the deepest musical point in me that i feel i belong to the mara..in his composition i can relate words like `from kilimanjaro to Amboseli to bamburi...`..perhaps about a maa who has transvered the geo locations like me..a really graphical nostalgia runs in my mind as i relate the mt. kilimanjaro background of kibo and mawenzi sustaining the Amboseli ecosystem and it`s environs like Tanzanian parks stretching to the'green hills of AFRICA,Kilaguni  to Tsavo west all way to mzima, Tsavo east(quite a great elephant corridor) down to the coast in Bamburi where he refers to in his rendition.by the time he is done quite a short,sweet and addictive  that you long for more , am convinced am in the Mara and part of the mara bracing my self up awaiting my night out in the bunduz as the local potray a gem of pyrotechnique craft as they make fire with wild olive ,sandalwood and bare hands- no matches , no lighters-just a bunduz man thing!

.my camp is at  `Kimana camp site  as the locals give a cosy welcome after a muddy affair with the stretch  to kimana getting stuck in the mud .Am officially bundufied to say and ready for any outcome. dusk is peeping in the kimana hills background so i have no choice put pitch my tent with my buddies.we are perky and excited for this lifetime experience amidst flora and fauna and in a few we are out in the bush gathering firewood to keep us warm in the night.

after freshening up am all over the camp trying to fathom directions from the camping area, in check of what facilties kimana camp offers and in tune of the ambience the crickets, the frogs and the stream trickling down it`s entrance wooden bridge in  the night . it is totally serene and tranquil all i need for a perfect rest. kimana camp also offers tented camps with space for upto four beds , hot showers from the everblazing boilers whose flames ever assure night security for the feeble hearted .Deep in the night i wake up to rude awakening of thunder storms and heavy precipitation is followed by hyenas laughing..was it a mockery to my friends who had pitch tents and forgot their flysheets? the heavy down pour trickles till morning and we arise for breakfast ready for an all day game drive.

            we embark on our adventure at the Sekenani gate and after clearance we kick start our expedition. a few meters away nature welcomes us to it`s cause as we get stuck in the mud and it`s a hustle and  bustle to make it to our morning drive and manage to spot some avi-fauna.a few minutes later we are out welcomed by maasai giraffes towering the trees as the mara triangle plains overlook us in the background. what a standing ovation as the kenyan national bird, lilac -chested roller welcomes us to the maasai mara and i feel so fulfilled as a budding birder. a few meters away in the savvannah grassland is the kori bustard busy in the daily chores as a herd of grazing topis  and thompsons gazelles grazing confirms my location. my guide JOSPHAT explains topis behaviour of rotating their heads due to a pre optical gland in them.

the road inside mara has a tailor made fete for me unlike my itinerary but you can never fight mother nature , a few metres our vehicle the komba demands  a boost as it drenched in mud on the slippery mud infested that interlink in the park.in.moving on i zoom a group of laxadonta africanas grazing at a far bush( commonly Elephants) as i head to keerok and mara river . on my way am lucky to spot of much concern southern ground hornbill one endemic bird facing threats on the IUCN redlist,   the grey crown crane (balerica reguloram gibbericus) african wattle plover ,secretary bird,pied kingfisher,greater eared starling,purple headed starlings as i head to the mara river.this time i get a close encounter to the elephants and i can see their distinctiveness from tsavo`s elephant a colouration due to wallowing in the mud to kill parasites and cool off.my guide Josphat explains that the giants shed their teeth every ten years in six times a lifetime and the distinctive features to identify a male or a female which is a hump on the males.

            As I am enroute to mara river I encounter Crocuta Crocuta (spotted hyena) amidst his daily hustles and bustle but in a solo set up .Just after black rock am impressed to know am approaching Tanzania to the mara-serengeti border as our   driver Mr. Evans now veers of the Kenyan route for me to get a glimpse at the beacons indicating my locality and in a few minutes am technically in Tanzania minutes later  back to kenya.in a while my mind is utopic as I try fathom the bearings as my mind is interrupted by a young hippopotamus  basking ashore a large mass of flowing water .At this point am aware am at the MARA river as euphoria vs self-destruct rushes my head on realization my driver Mr.Evans choose the lower bridge and the locomotive tyres are immersed in the brown fast flowing  Mara waters   but what to say rather than trusting the process – life`s a risk! .

              At the kws station I realize am bordering kilgoris county and behind me is the Tanzanian border as a pied kingfisher captures my attention as I head to the upper mara bridge. Hardly am I at the bridge when my buddy AHMED spots a crocodile succumb it`s catch and drowns it but the ferocious beast is fast and determined. Am now at spot that boasts world wonders which is the great Maasai mara migration. Usually wildebeests have to cross here at mara river as depicted in the BBC`s BIG CATS DIARY even prior to the film to make it to SERENGETI in Tanzania. The great migration happens during the month of July -October in search of food, water , pastures and mating partners and so ia flamingoes from lake Nakuru and lake Bogoria to lake Natron in Tanzania  . Overlooking the olotulo salt lick perched on the hill near Mara river is TANGULIA  CAMP mara  owned and ran by locals ( tangulia is a swahili word meaning lead the way. Look for Jackson Leseiya and Dominic Nchoe as Jackson is a seasoned and highly acclaimed safari guide for over 25years having worked with BBC`S BIG CAT DIARY and has vast knowledge of the mara ecosystem and Kenya wildlife. As I contemplate irrespective of colonial borders am convinced Mara and Serengeti was and is one vast eco system just that colonial powers demarcated the eco system.

      It`s about 1630hrs and I embark to my evening game drive. Amidst the white thorn acacia and shrubs I can clearly spot Equus Buscheli(zebras ), synerus caffer(buffalos) grazing  and laxadonta Africana transverse the mara terrain. Am completely amped and so keen since am aware the scorching sun is now mild as it sets and wild animals are now out  . my attention is drawn by a rendezvous of tour enthusiasts in their vehicles at one spot and as I zoom in my bino I notice a rangers` green landcruiser patrolling and am guaranteed something spectacular is manned here.

        MR. Evan`s sentiments are at par as he drives to the spot keenly…am zooming and focusing amidst the savannah grasslands trying to depict what`s going on. My soul is stoked when I spot the camouflaging lioness majestically pound her paws heading to black rock. Am even more euphoric later as I zoom in and spot her cubs so perky with her and ahead of them is the male lion and another lioness. Is it a routine? My mind wanders as am disrupted by a far view of other lions steadily camouflaging afar in the opposite direction heading to black rock. My mind is at peace as I observe this cats in total admiration of their jamboree wondering what black rock could hold.is this this the ENKUYANAI pride? As am aware prides have maa names . I can now end my day in total satisfaction and fulfilment.

              Am totally in love with the Mara. Mara to the world! Am aware of conservation measures in the mara and am even grateful that some safari companies are introducing electric cars in the mara to curb pollution. To crown it all I fully support the implementation of a new rule that `only 4x 4 with a shade of green and brown will only be allowed into the mara’ this will enhance the chance to spot wildlife and avert conspicuous disruption bearing in mind the eco-friendly silent vehicles.

 Am positive as a conservationist this will also reduce `rounding up and hounding’ fauna and create a blend. Just a sneak peek into the future, plans are on going to make mara` A UNESCO WORLD SITE’.

                 As I head to my camp am just in tune with everything here, the air, the water, the earth, as I long to light that bonfire amidst the night to be in tune with the spirits. Back at the maasai village my friends have organized a goat for the bonfire as I look forward to it. As a creator I find it totally peaceful to unwind , heal from my creative bloc….just lost in the bunduz no wifi , just cosmopolitan solace in the wild.after freshening up I gather my friends Saitoti, Moyes, Markos, Elisha just to name to the legendary goat slaughtering tradition. firewood, maasai simeh (sword) and wallah! The gurus are skinning the goat as the flame engulf the cold mara night one by one we gather round the bonfire as it`s a vibe. This crowns my night in mara as I go rest nostalgic ready for Kisumu Ndere islands.

The next morning we are unpitching our tents trying to mobilize and park everything and after our breakfast we have to leave kimana  camp. I have learnt so much of mara like the great conservancies making the mara like Nabosho, shulai,mara triangle  , bookings to mara like `last minute mara ‘ and www.maraballoning.com  .i promise to myself I have to revisit mara come July to October and document `The great mara migration’.

             I arrive at the Narok-Bomet junction and I take the road to BOMET  in pursuit of Kisumu. I enjoy the lush green terrain of the rift valley with vast Australian cypress and lantana camara dominating. By lunch hour am at Bomet town as I have a stop over for my shopping essentials . we hit the road and at about 1500 hrs  I stop at the scenic Sotik tea farm carpeting the landscape to have my lunch. What a chance to appreciate flora as I noticed an `Africa emblemed forest ‘from a far overlooking the lush green tea farms. Again I appreciate my motherland .

             Back on the road we leave for kisumu and by 1730 hrs am at Ahero area and I can spot cattle egrets and papyrus reeds  feeling the change in weather. It`s breezy as am approaching the lake region- all I need after an all day journey.As I enjoy the cityscapes I notice how Kisumu has a vast variety of avi-fauna as I head to my sleep at the wildlife clubs of Kenya Kisumu branch. Back in the vicinity as I familiarize with the environment am given a rude awakening by a mighty lion`s roar. Thus when I come to understanding Kisumu`s Impala Orphanage shares fences with vicinity. Am glad everywhere I go am tucked in nature as I look forward to rest after my briefing.

              It`s on Thursday as I arise to new expectations ahead of my day`s excursion.At sunrise am at on the road to the magical Kisumu Ndere islands national park and it`s environs.AS a birder  am enthralled to spot some lifers like the crested malimbe,as I approach the rock filled to Ndere area. We come to a hault as the access road had been washed away by heavy down pour .i brace my self up armed with bottles of water to keep hydrated for my hike to the ndere islands.Am fascinated by the no. of lifers we spot like the Elanus caeruleus( black shouldered kite), stephanoaetus coronatus(long crested fish eagle), monticola saxatilis (common rock thrush), as we head to the boat rides.

          Generally the community around Ndere are fishermen keeping a few livestock for sustainability. We arrive ate `The Kenya wildlife service offices and after clearance we are at `The Bao campsite’ an ideal campsite area overlooking the lake and the islands-so  splendid indeed for camping enthusiast like me! At Bao we are welcomed by sites of monitor lizards as we strap our lifejackets ready for our boat rides.

             Docked amidst the water hyacinth we board our boats before our captains roar the engines and off we set for Ndere national park. It`s a short boat ride as you enjoy views of fish -eating aves and the surrounding islands .sooner we are the foot of our hike. We begin the hike by a sight of waterbucks grazing as we target the hill top. The views at the top is breathe taking perfect for a sundowner`s paradise as we admire the scenery and the surrounding group of islands. Back on a different route we descend to our boat rides back ashore.

               Ashore we enjoy our delicacy and set off for the iconic `kit mikayi’ a few kilometres from Ndere islands . on arrival am amused by the enigmatic  giant boulders sitting on each other one could be convinced they were placed symmetrical. Our guide George Odhiambo leads us into the caves which were of religious significance to the locals . the forefathers could  even carry out sacrifices and pray there as I get to witness the old tales of the beautiful lady ----------------.my guide recites the prayer as the skies open up to precipitation but this does not stop us from climbing the rock to get an aerial view of the vicinity but the winds are so strong. Am left with a lot of unfathomable questions as I head back to Kisumu city with lingering amazement.

               It` s almost the weekend still on the road and I have the longest journey to paradise of canopy then to the bird watchers paradise.As early as 0500hrs I bid Kisumu goodbye in pursuit of a forest 1500-1750 height above sea level, a haven of avi fauna and flora receiving more than 2000mm of rainfall.I wake up to kakamega`s forest gate welcomed by ambience of bird`s , crickets and the towering giants as a path leads to the nature trial.my guide Simon who is very resourceful leads as he explains the forest eco system. Kakamega forest covers an area of 240 km squared with the local community still co-existiing with the wildlife and it is jointly managed by the Kenya forest service and the Kenya wildlife services.

          Am impressed by the fact that commercial exotic tree planting is carried out . my guide Simon later explains the primates in the  1933 forest under Kenya forest services that was later gazetted in 1985.The forest harbors over 6 species of primates including the black and white colobus monkey, the olive baboon ,blue monkey,braza monkey( also found in Saiwa),and two nocturnals,the bushbaby and the porto.The forest also has over 36 snakes species including  venomous ones like the forest cobra,black mamba, gabon viper just but a few and non- venomous like blind snake ,Africa rock python e.t.c

             Of avians are 350 bird species e.g ,the north African thrush, forest brown king forester, emperor swallow tail, blue shouldered robin chat, red chested cuckoo, grey blue turacko…..200 bee species,6 species of bettles and vast flora of 380+ species and fauna like `the 800 year old Elgon teak -endangered for wood ,anigeria atisma,yucca also rasiana fragrance,stinging nestle, strangler ficcus,moss and liverworts,and the Disporus Abysinnica a mythical tree believed to be  used for black magic. Basically I have not come across a forest rich in bio diversity like this in a while.

          It`s almost 1000hrs and we enroute to a place of dust `Nakuru’ as the maasai name depicts.it`s quite a journey as I enjoy the views of the nandi flames ,Japanese dodders  and the vast flora as we transverse the counties to Kedong  and I heave a sigh of relief on my arrival to salgaa. Am now assured Nakuru is just kilometres away as I start to see the lake sitting at the city`s background.

We arrive at lanet gate at approximately 0530hrs as we head to our camp so tired but that won`t stop me from taking a few twilight shots as the evening sun kisses the lake casting it`s ambience. I retire to bed bearing in mind I have a 0600hrs morning game drive ready for a bird watcher`s paradise experience.

               Binoculars, guide books , jacket I grab them hastily as I almost overslept it`s six in the morning and leaving from the lanet gate I vividly wake up to Bovidae`s all around the vicinity grazing as they howl warm air steam emanating from their mouths an indicator of the cold in Nakuru morning. On my game drive I manage to spot Crocuta Crocuta as he fades into the bush as a buddy spots a rhino but so far away up uphill.

Am looking forward to experience the sunrise reflect on the lake ans as am counting down am wowed by view of variety of aves in an array their trajectory being in accord. It`s so magical and I can`t wait to freeze frames in my camera of the wonderful phenomena. Amidst the parade are pelicans, yellow ducks and a lot of lifers bearing in mind the endemic greater and lesser flamingoes. Perching on the yellow barked acacia are blacksmith plover, olive thrush, grey headed kingfisher, long crested eagles. It`s quite a successful bird watching session for most of us are avid avi-fauna enthusiasts as am convinced `truly the early bird catches the worm, fat fish could be in this setting!’

           I enjoy the glares touching down the lake  as the birds are in abundance as I struggle to bask in the moving` komba ‘ watching the  maniac jolted syncerus caffer chasing the vehicle in a manner that he wants to charge. A friend shares if it was a small auto- mobile they would not hesitate their idiosyncratic mischief .

Moving on I watch the grant gazelle`s views grazing in the plains faded from my view as I approach a spectacular view of `The MAKALIA falls ’ as I alight to catch a glimpse of the scenic view. Makalia is a perfect picnic site and what a location for nature photography memoirs. We  enroute back  and just past the airstrip at the lodge my crony Marcos halts the driver at sight of a night owl perched on one of the yellow backed acacias.

             Uphill we drive to the scenic `Baboon cliff’ where I get a chance for a picnic and fathom the lake ecosystem from a bird`s view…one of a kind indeed as I long to fly a drone just to get a different perspective. To my observation, I can tell that the lake is encroaching the  land vastly evident of the yellow bark acacia stumps standing in the water from baboon cliff view as some link roads are  flooded. I go back to the camp awaiting my evening longing for the bonfire in tune with the lake eco system.

              The weekend is here and the inevitable has to happen, east or west home is best but I would have overstayed in the bunduz given a chance. On my way to Naivasha to Nairobi I gaze out my window to the view of the terrain and the paper trees only to reminisce  at the photographic phoca galore running my mind and nostalgia as I await to get home review my captions and share this experience to my avid readers and travel enthusiasts .

Mucho appreciation to everyone who made it possible for this expedition to be successful bearing in mind the understanding and the indulgence that buds for everyone to take up responsibility in conserving and upholding nature .

`A journey is not measured by the mileage but by  the experience and the friends aboard’

                                                                                                                By SAITABAU CASTRO.